One of the behaviors that dooms any hobbyist is getting excited about hardware without plans for it to last. I learned this the hard way with my only one e-scooter. I was lazy about keeping the tires inflated, and sure enough, I got not one but two points before I decided I better give it a go. I prefer an electric unicycle these days, but you better believe I pay attention to every aspect of maintenance.
Home theaters does not require as much attention as a single-wheel vehicle. However, things can and do go wrong AV systems if you neglect them, so here are some tips that should ensure that yours is as good five years from now as it is today. Even if you don’t plan to keep equipment for that long, solid maintenance can help resale value.
Clean screens and lenses carefully
You don’t wash the Empire State
For the most part, cleaning a TV or projector screen is about immediate clarity rather than longevity. You don’t want dust, dried liquids, or a child’s sticky fingers distracting you from your movies and shows. However, some materials become more difficult to remove if you do not clean immediately, and in rare cases they may even react badly if they contain special chemicals.
There is no hard and fast rule about how often you should clean, unless it’s obviously necessary. What is set in stone is that you clean with microfiber cloths, and avoid using anything with ammonia or alcohol in it, like Windex. That’s because the glass surfaces in home theater equipment almost inevitably rely on special coatings, and it’s too easy to damage them. Use liquid cleaners specially blended for televisions, lenses or computers.
You want to be especially careful about cleaning the projector lenses. These may not be very hard to begin with, and the slightest nick or smudge will be enhanced.
Vacuum cleaners, filters and other surfaces
Defeat the silent killer
As I’ve said elsewhere, heat is typically the ultimate killer of TVs. No wire or circuit is 100% efficient, and that waste energy takes its toll—it’s just a matter of which component goes first. To stretch the longevity as far as possible, you need to keep the heat under control.
That means preventing dust accumulation anywhere that could impede airflow. Vents and filters should be your priority, but even perfectly flat surfaces can start to trap extra heat if you build up a layer of dust on top. I recommend dusting once a month, or at least every few months. Microfiber cloths are preferred. You may want a can of compressed air in some situations, but make sure you keep it level, and a few inches away from your target. You don’t want the liquids from the can to land on circuit.
Heavy accumulation can also increase the intensity of static shock, although it is dry air and unbalanced charges that actually trigger it. It should be easy to avoid accidentally frying your gear.
Inspection ports and cables
A lower priority, thankfully
For the most part, you don’t have to worry about it. When a system is fully installed, many ports are blocked by cables that go nowhere. Some ports will inevitably remain open, however, and these could fill up with dust, lint and other debris. Keeping them clean will keep them usable. If you need to unscrew something, do it gently with a soft tip tool that won’t bend contacts or leave its own dirt.
Pay attention to the condition of the cables themselves. The crimping and crimping can potentially distort sheaths and internal wiring. Also, if the cables are unexpectedly brown or exposed, you should probably replace them right away – they could be fire hazards, or even electrocute someone. You may be able to cover exposed wires with electrical tape, but that level of wear suggests a cable is on its way anyway.
Upgrade power supplies and protectors
Prepare for the worst, not everyday life
Electronic demands vary watts to function. When upgrading key components of your system, such as the TV or speakers, there is a risk that your existing power supply will be insufficient, leading to unexpected shutdowns. You may have to do some math sometimes, the maximum watts of anything plugged into a power strip. Usually, a single strip/outlet combo can’t deliver more than 1,800W, and you should keep practical levels a few hundred watts below that to avoid overheating or tripping the internal circuit breaker.
Your power strips should also be surge protectors, rated for at least 2,000 joules. Those joule rating determines how much of a current can be absorbed. In addition, however, you should research tension voltages if you can. The lower this figure is, the faster the protection will kick in. 330V is ideal.
The best protection often comes from a UPS, short for uninterruptible power supply. With a battery, this can keep your equipment running for a short time after an outage, preventing the damage that can sometimes come from sudden shutdowns. All the wattage and current requirements I mentioned still apply, however, and you should probably put amplifiers and larger subwoofers on direct power. A massive peak in power draw can overload consumer-grade UPS units.